We The Perfumistae

Reading Nose Prose recent post about a fragrance that was an old friend, brought a question to mind.

Do we, the Perfumistae, miss out on what fragrances are primarily for?

*a note before you read. These are my thoughts. There are no criticisms just observations here. I consider I’m a member of the Perfumistae my observations are be purely personal!

Firstly, what do I mean by Perfumistae? These are my definitions

1. Anyone who makes considered choices when deciding to purchase a fragrance. This may be by thorough testing from the counter on a number of occasions. By obtaining samples from counter or from sample sellers.

2. Has developed some knowledge of the language used to describe fragrances. They understand genres, structure, notes, sillage, radiance etc

3. Someone who reads about a fragrance from a number of sources. These sources may be official releases but will include other independent sources both online & in print.

4. They think about perfumery in an academic fashion. By this, I mean by questioning & experimenting.

5. Perfumistae will have a collection of fragrances. These may be tightly curated or wide ranging. They are likely to include samples, decants, full presentation bottles, finds from post market sale sites & charity/thrift stores.

6. Finally, members of the Perfumistae, consider fragrance to be the olfactory art form.

Why do I think that we, the Perfumistae, might sometimes miss out on one of perfumes basic functions, to smell good & create happiness?

By trying to dissect a fragrance into its component parts or trying to detect individual notes do we sometimes lose focus on the perfume in its entirety? Primarily, should we simply decide if it smells good?

I compare this to wine buffs dissecting what they smell & taste when drinking wine. “I’m getting flint arrows, dormouse & gasoline.” When actually, as a wine buyer what I want to know is “Does it taste good? Will it make my dish taste better?

Constant reading & sampling can lead to the chase for the new aka the infamous lemming!

Lemmings can lead to the blind buy. We read all about the lemming we are hunting. We can’t find a decant or sample anywhere, no one is hosting splits anymore, it’s a limited edition, it’s a unicorn, our favourite influencer or our perfume twin 2000 miles away sings it’s praises…. All these can eat away at us until we cave & buy a bottle unsniffed!

Blind buy bottles are often left to macerate aka fester in our perfume cabinet, wardrobe, drawers or even fridge! Usually boxed & only tested. They arrive after we have moved on to chase the next new thing.

The chase for the new often leads to sample mountains.

The sample mountain can lead to one of two things. Being overwhelmed by the Everest like proportions of the mountain or feeling guilty about the waste when discovering samples or decants than now reside with the perfumed angels.

To try & rein in the above we go on no buys for a set period of time. Yet we still read or view voraciously, making note of what we want to try when our self imposed no buy is over. No buys are often broken.

What do we do with the sample mountain & unappreciated bottles? We either make an intentional choice to use them up, release into the wild via resale sites or gift them to other perfumistae, friends or family.

We impose perfume budgets on ourselves to prevent overspending. We may stick to them! We may even save these budgets whilst on no buys. This enables us to buy a haul.

Writing this had me in fits of laughter at my own expense.

I have done them all! Yep every single one! They have all brought me happiness is some way, BUT I now recognise it isn’t necessarily smelling the scent that makes me happy. It’s the learning, the belonging to the tribe I’ve called the Perfumistae. It’s the kindness of like minded people across the world who will share precious nectar with people they have never met. The commonality between those who share their perfume passion via whatever media & those who read, watch & listen.

I started this post with a certain direction in mind. Writing it took me down a different more interesting path. I came to an important realisation.

I would like to thank every member of the Perfumistae for their perfumed passions. My special thanks go to those who share their wisdom & discoveries, not just the content creators but the commentators who keep the conversations buzzing along. I am grateful to the perfumers, the art directors, the brand owners who continue to create our chosen art form. Most of all I am grateful to those who share their juice with others, who encourage, teach & keep a sense of perspective. After all, our chosen art form is the one that disappears! One that cannot be seen, touched or heard. It is different on every person, sometimes on every application.

Do you think the Perfumistae exist? How do you define them? Am I way wide of the mark & just being daft?

*why have I typed some words in bold? They are our language. Things we understand, our jargon if you will. Or they are my realisations.

About alityke

Dog loving, fragrance fiend. Started to miss writing so got on with writing this after 10 years of procrastination! Collaborate? Contact alityke@hotmail.com or Alityke on IG
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15 Responses to We The Perfumistae

  1. Brigitte says:

    I agree with your definition and I laughed wholeheartedly reading your article because I also engaged in all said behaviors.

    • Nose Prose says:

      Same here!
      Although, I will admit I still get envious of those who can dissect perfumes (or wines, or coffee, tea…) to such a granular level. “Dormouse”? LOL…

      • alityke says:

        I’m ambivalent about drilling down. When I have made myself take a fragrance apart, it has wrecked the experience of wearing it for me.
        I once saw a perfume review that described a note as “hubristic”. 🙄

      • Nose Prose says:

        Wow. I wonder what the actual note was? An obnoxious woody-amber, perhaps?

      • alityke says:

        I stopped reading reviews by that person. I can’t remember the note particularly but the reviews read like word salad.
        I think any wine with the aroma of dormouse would be off

      • rickyrebarco says:

        Hubristic note in perfume, that’s hilarious!! “Dormouse” is good, too! I no longer read wine reviews, since I can’t drink at all with one of my regular medications. One less thing to clutter my mind with, I think!

      • alityke says:

        When I read about the hubristic note, my brain created a picture of that plump, little note popping up with its own tiny trumpet, stomping along, chest out like a pouter pigeon!

    • alityke says:

      When the unicorn arrives…. You immediately move on. We are hamsters on a wheel

  2. Haha. Great post! Yes, all too common behaviours amongst us “crazy” folk. Although, I have managed to reign in the blind buying in recent years.

    • alityke says:

      I’m guessing most of us know we’re a bit nuts when it comes to fragrances.
      I admire your ability to parse notes. When I’ve occasionally done it, it spoils wearing that fragrance for me

  3. rickyrebarco says:

    I’m definitely a perfumista/e by your definition. I’ve done all those things, too. I like to identify notes mainly as nose training, but I don’t let an obsession with identifying notes ruin a perfume for me. Also, while I see perfume as an art form, I can appreciate a fragrance as art, but still hate the way it smells. It’s like art. You can understand why an artist or her work is considered important or even brilliant, and not like it at all. For example, after watching a documentary on Mark Rothko and his art I finally understand, at least to some degree, what he was trying to do with all those big rectangles of color, and why some folks think he was a great and important artist. While it’s good to have this information, I still don’t like his work and it totally leaves me cold. I can appreciate a perfume creation as art and still hate the way it smells!

    I don’t buy anything unless I love the way it smells. At the very least, it has to be a very strong like or it will never enter my collection. And it doesn’t have to be something worshiped by the perfume critics either. I love Ellen Tracy Bronze; it’s a lovely heliotrope that I enjoy more each time I wear it. I’m sure it would get trashed by some fancy perfume reviewers, but I love it and that’s all that matters to me.

    • alityke says:

      I agree about the comparison with the visual arts, your comparison put it far better than I did.
      I seriously envy your ability to never blind buy & to be so intentional when adding to your collection.

      • rickyrebarco says:

        In my first 2 years down the perfume rabbit hole I did a number of blind buys and I learned quickly not to do that any longer!!

      • rickyrebarco says:

        However, even sampling isn’t always foolproof. I recently bought a perfume I loved after sampling it– the samples smelled wonderful. Then I got the full bottle and this funk note appeared in the midst of all the iris goodness of Indenomables Iris Perle. Arrgghh!

      • alityke says:

        I had a similar incident with Le Lion. That wrecked Shalimar EdP for me too

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